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temperature in still air. If a man is walking at a moderate pace with the temperature at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, a wind of only 10 m.p.h. will approximate the conditions to 40 degrees lower. Constant loss of body heat will result as the wind increases in velocity.

Winds between 70 and 90 m.p.h. were recorded on top when the air was still in Fort William at sea level. This is a most important factor in view of the number of people who start out on an expedition in the belief that it will be as pleasant on the mountain as it is in the glen.

Wind is a worse enemy for an injured but fatigued party than cold. A man can walk if it is cold, he cannot walk against a gale. And when he has succumbed to the wind, too exhausted to find or build a windbreak, when the wind has sapped his will, the cold takes over.

These conditions: weather, altitude, inexperience, are the setting for exposure tragedies and extensive searches.

On Christmas Eve, 1956, a great storm swept Ben Nevis. It was said to be one of the worst within living memory. On the morning of that day five young climbers left their camp in the Allt a' Mhuilinn glen to climb the Ben. they had climbed extensively in the Lake District but this was the first visit to the Ben for at least four of them. The fifth may have climbed here before.

They climbed a gully but the weather wasn't good and they were slow. By the time they reached the top it was growing dark. There was only one watch in the party and this was broken. They were uncertain of their position on the mountain and the weather was deteriorating. By the time they had walked some distance it was completely dark and they were lost, although they could see the lights of Fort William below.

They decided it would be dangerous to descend that night so they cut a rough hole in the snow and bivouacked. One of them slept a little, but when he felt his limbs stiffening, stood up and tramped about in the same spot all night. When daylight came he was almost exhausted but he saw that two of the others were considerably worse. The two remaining members of the party were in slightly better shape. They had eaten nothing for a long time. They had been carrying some cheese when they left their camp site but this had been eaten on the climb.

It was agreed that the fittest man should try to get down to the Fort for assistance. He reached the valley at 11.0 am on Christmas Day, but he was too Continue to page 4

 
                     
   
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