which to double for the star on fantastic overhangs, but it is not enough qualification, of itself, for an instructor. It can be a definite disadvantage. Tigers at their peak, like artists, are self-centred. At the most they can work well with only one other, and beside that kind of work, instruction at mountain centres is too pedestrian.

Competence and teaching ability are not the only qualifications required of mountaineering instructors. Their attitude to men and mountains is a strong consideration and, of course, to their work. Another strong point emphasised by the better mountain schools is that an instructor who is quite competent on rock is not necessarily capable on snow and ice, and before he is allowed to take young people on the hills in winter he must demonstrate that he can lead safely on difficult snow climbs.

This last qualification underlines the difference between amateur and professional instructors. Often at Coroners' Courts one hears the statement that the dead man was an experienced climber, and in that case, the layman says, accidents are inevitable and climbing is dangerous. The layman does not know that, although the man was experienced, it was as a rock-climber, and he was killed in his first season on snow and ice. At the end of the climber's first summer season, he may be leading very hard climbs on rock; but with the first snow and the first feel of an ice axe, he is right back at the beginning again. This is a fact precocious rock-climbers have difficulty in recognising.

In 1961 the Welsh guides pressed for a new certificate of competency without which no man or woman would be permitted to take an organised party on a hill over 2,000 feet high.

This certificate would be on the lines of the Mountaineering Guide's certificate. The latter demands a high standard of competency from the applicant, including ability to lead climbs of Very Difficult standard and the experience necessary to cope with all types of weather and conditions to be found in British hills. It also insists on experience in mountain rescue and First Aid. A third certificate proposed for people other than guides could not expect such high qualifications as these, but it should demand elementary knowledge of rock-climbing, mountain weather and snow conditions. The applicant should be able to use an ice axe, and he should have specialised knowledge of at least one mountain district. Moreover, he should not be allowed to lead parties of novices in districts other than those for which he holds a certificate. These qualifications are very low compared with even the lower of the two guides' certificates, yet there are many people in charge of youngsters in mountains today who do not possess them.

The scheme for a third certificate was excellent but the difficulties of implementing it too great to be considered at that time by the British Mountaineering Council. The scheme had originated with Lees and James: the two guides, both in charge of teams, on whose shoulders fell the load of almost every rescue in North Wales, but even they, desperately shocked at the number and nature of the accidents, were forced to admit that the only method of bringing their scheme to fruition was legislation. This might keep the incompetent off the hills, but hedge the competent about with so many restrictions that they would fight the scheme. If it were introduced only for the inexperienced, who was to decide who was experienced? A panel of experts would be needed. But if a certificate of any kind were demanded by the Ministry of Education and others, where were the examiners to be found to cope with the vast hordes of potential instructors? Who would pay them, for they must of necessity, work full-time? Who would police the mountains, demanding to see certificates, and what would the penalty be for instructing without one?

To the tiger and the old hand alike, both abhorring professionalism in their sport, or any form of regimentation, such objections could only make the scheme appear ludicrous. But the guides were concerned with the grim realities. When a sport is utilised as an organised training programme for thousands, when 50 per cent of the accidents occur to young people in training, there must be rules.

A Mountain College might be the answer, open all the year round and Continue to page 6