The RAF Mountain Rescue Service (MRS) has a long tradition of Trans-Highland walks, the main exponents being Ken Shaw, John Hinde, Pete McGowan and Dave Whalley. North to South’s, South to North’s, West to East’s, East to West’s and traverses in winter have all been successfully completed by the MRS. A long walk across the Highlands tests a number skills; navigation, physical fitness and mental toughness (i.e. an ability to disassociate oneself from external weather and corporal rigours).

An expedition such as this also has the added advantage of not only increasing area knowledge, but also highlighting an awareness of ones surroundings that proves impossible for the mountaineer to appreciate during his weekend forays to the hills. As the late John Hinde said:

“ A man can spend half a lifetime climbing from his favourite centres in Scotland without really getting to know the detailed layout of the ridges, glens and lochs that make up the Highlands”.

In other words it enables previously unexplored areas to be visited and the pieces of the Highland jigsaw be put together.

It had always been my ambition to do a long walk, way back in 1986 when I witnessed the return of Kinloss troops Teuch Brewer, Mark Rushton, Davie Walker, Brian Webster and Kev Higgins from a 3 week wilderness tramp across the Western Highlands. Tanned, bearded, confident – they looked like real mountaineers to an inexperienced novice like myself.

With ease of access to the Alps and other ranges throughout the

My idea for a walk was only formulated in Feb 03, but planning took little time. The problem was identifying what route to take. An East to West (West to East) was proving difficult to piece together, mainly because many mountain bothies no longer existed (Nest of Fannich, White Cottage – Glen Affric and Marble Quarry Tea-break hut (!) to name but 3). A North to South (South to North) was too long an expedition and in the present climate and personnel would encounter difficulty in getting time off work for 3 weeks. Furthermore, the negative aspect identified with a coast to coast was the amount of road walking required. I envisaged a plan to get right into the heart of the Highlands minimising this. Finally, after closer scrutiny of the map it was decided to walk from Dundonnel to Glenfinnan. Depending on the weather, it was estimated that it would be possible to complete between 40 and 45 Munros, 80,000’ of ascent, about 200 miles over 15 days.

The next problem was who to take. Sgt Dinga Bell the permanent staff supply manager was eager. Suffering “munroitis” he was under the misapprehension that he would be “ticking” lots of new hills, in fact he only acquired 9 new ones. Four novices also put their hands up at weekly briefing, signalling a complete misunderstanding of the pain and effort that would be required. Sgt Fergie Cliff, a recent acquisition to the MRT, but plenty of previous mountaineering knowledge that would enable him to rescue the team from a few navigational scrapes. Cpl Abo Alexander eager and willing had stamina and fitness. SAC Euan McFarlane an ex-Scottish swimming champion had endurance and a complete disregard for physical unpleasantness. Finally, 20 yr old SAC Pete Welsh, the young whippet. Euan had been on the MRT for 18 months, the other 3 for less than a year.

It was also decided that an opportunity for fundraising should be taken. Therefore, as an aside, the exercise would be a sponsored effort and any proceeds would be split between The Highland Hospice and Macmillan Cancer Research. Fergie arranged this. Other tasks were necessary. I planned the route down to final details and raised the Administrative Order, Dinga organized the food caches and the rest assisted with the food drop-offs.

All was in order with a week to go. D Flt 202 Sqn assisted with 2 last minute food drops and packing began. However, I had the niggling feeling that I may have bitten off more than I could chew and an air of doubt creped in especially after studying the long range weather forecast.

Day 1 - Thursday 1 May 03 Dundonnel – (An Teallach) Bidein a Ghlas Thuill – Sgurr Fiona - Shenavall Bothy. 1350m ascent. 11 km. 6 ½ hours.

This was the weather that we didn’t really need. Rain showers lower down snow above 800m. A nice steady pace to begin with led to a brief navigational conflab on the top before Bidein a Ghlas Thuill – already temporarily unaware of our exact position on the morning of day 1. The snow was about 8” deep over the ridge and it took some time to find the traverse path that skirts

the difficulties. Down to Shenavall to try and locate the food cache dropped by D Flt 202 Sqn. 1 ½ hours later we got it!

Day 2 – Friday 2 May 03 Shenavall Bothy – Beinn a Chlaidheimh – Sgurr Ban – Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair – Beinn Tarsuinn – A Mhaighdean – Ruadh Stac Mor – Carnmore Bothy.
2430m ascent. 23 km. 11 ½ hours.

Not a bad day, scattered cloud windy and the occasional shower in the morning. Later in the afternoon the heavens opened and we got very wet as we strode down to Carnmore. The snow of the day before had mostly melted on these hills. Everybody did fine on a ‘biggish’ day and it only took us 30 minutes to find 202 Sqn’s food stash.

Clear morning and just scattered cloud. Little snow left but quite a few showers pm. A big pull up onto Beinn Lair (beautiful hill) to be greeted by a massive cairn and great views. Then it was a long trot over no mans land to Slioch. The hill proved really steep from this side and the 600 m pull up felt hard work. Plenty of folk on the summit. The owner of the Kinlochewe Hotel gave us £15 for the charity from his back pocket when he worked out that the projected 80,000’ of ascent was equivalent to 15 miles!

Day 5 – Monday 5 May 03 Torridon Youth Hostel – Maol Chean Dearg – Bealach na Lice – Bealach Ban – Coire Grannda – Sgorr Ruadh – Beinn Liath Mhor – Coire Lair – Achnashellach – Craig – Gerrys Hostel. Ascent 2200m. 31km. 10 hours.

Dull and occasional heavy showers especially in the afternoon and windy (50 knts). The snow had almost gone from these hills. Again we heard a cuckoo. We had heard one every morning. It was as though it was ridiculing us. Nice hills, but a bit of a plod to Craig. Made welcome in Gerry’s Hostel, although we were limited to 5 minutes in the shower due to a local water shortage and had to obey all the rules.

Day 6 – Tuesday 6 May 03 Gerrys Hostel – Bealach Bernais – Sgurr Coinnich – Sgurr a Choarachain – Bealach Bernais – Bernais Bothy. Ascent 1372m. 23km. 7 ½ hours.

Occasional showers falling as snow on the summits. Wind 45 knots. Fairly easy day and still wintry on the summits, with a localised gusty wind. Down to the isolated, but great little bothy at Bernais, where we met a couple of guys. One was Mike Lee who did a trial on the team in the 1990s. Had a good crack with them that evening.

Day 7 – Wednesday 7 May 03 Bernais Bothy – Coire Seasgach – Bidein a Choire Sheasgaich – Lurg Mhor – Pait Lodge. Ascent 960m. 11km. 6 hours.

By far the easiest day, but fine hills. Came off Lurg Mhor on the little trodden ridge down to Pait Lodge. Quite airy in places and superb views. Dinga dropped his hill bag down the South side but it only went about 50 metres. However, it smashed his digital camera. Dull with the occasional shower falling as snow on the summits. It turned a bit clearer p.m. Had a magnificent welcome from Dougie and Angela Lippe, the Stalker and his wife at Pait Lodge. They have a small bungalow on the West Shore of Loch Monar, their only exit to the outside world a 45 minute boat ride to Strathfarrar. They put us up in a gillies hut with 2 beds and a Raeburn stove – luxury. Shortly after arriving it was scones, cakes, cans of beer, whisky and cups of tea at the croft. That evening we were invited up again for scones, cakes, cans of beer, whisky and cups of tea!

Nick came with us today as he was ticking Munros. Snow had settled on the summits Overnight and was fairly deep in places. We also had the odd heavy shower. It seemed a long pull up onto Sgurr nan Ceathreamhan. Abo had decided to miss today to give the injury a rest. Don would drop him off at Kintail. Kenny injured his leg jumping a stream in spate. Dinga limped into Kintail an hour late after trying out a pair of new boots that Nick had brought for him. Met Leuchars MRT at Kintail – they were there for the weekend. A guy called Heavy dropped in, said he used to be on the team and could he have some floor space for the night. We let him after he handed over Elmas cake – this cake nourished us in our most desperate moments in the days ahead.

Day 10 – Saturday 10 May 03 Invershiel – Sgurr nan Saighead – Sgurr Fhuaran – Sgurr nan Carnach – Sgurr na Ciste Dubh – Sgurr nan Spainteach – Saileag – Sgurr a Bhealaich Dearg – Aonach Meadhoin – Cluanie Lodge. Ascent 2500m. 21km. 11 hours.

Kenny had his worst day today as did Abo and Pete. Kenny was carrying an injured leg (which lasted until the end). Abo had to pull out of the walk after 2 hills due to his injury. Nevertheless, he gave us great support at the end when he came to pick us up and sorted out the final days of the exercise. Pete had been going great guns, but today he was feeling really ill. He also had to withdraw. The weather didn’t help. Soft wet snow down to 700 meters and heavy snow showers. Miserable. Thankfully a Leuchars party broke step for us on the first 3 hills. All the remaining were completely done in by the time they reached Cluanie Inn for refreshments. Then to Cluanie Lodge – an impressive place, full of old paintings and furniture, although in a state of disrepair. Instead of sleeping in one of the 20 bedrooms, we decided to use the floor of one of the lounges instead.

Day 11 – Sunday 11 May 03 Cluanie Lodge – Creag a Mhaim – Druim Shionnach – Aonach Air Chrith – Maol Chin Dearg – Sgurr an Lochain – Altbeithe (Deer Larder). Ascent 1440m. 18km. 6 hours.

A slightly easier day than yesterday. These 2 days were critical if we were to reach our target of 40 Munros as both days amounted to 11 of the 40. Still plenty of snow about and the occasional shower. Now and then we got a view as the cloud cleared. Dinga was bouncing today as Kate (his wife) had brought him his old boots back. Great bothy, stone floor and walls made of slats to keep cool. Fortunately, there were no deer in the larder.

Dinga and Fergies worst day. A great morning after lots of overnight rain, but heavy showers started after midday. Plenty of deep snow on Sgurr a Mhaoraich and a long walk into Barrisdale – foot sore. Met by the stalker at Barrisdale Steven Millar and Phyllis. Again it was a case of great hospitality. Beer and whisky, chocolate biscuits and chat in the croft.

Dull and dreich but at least the snow is beginning to melt. The end is in sight, but we are getting more tired as each day goes by. Kenny is having trouble going down hill due to his injury. There are a family of 8 in Sourlies including 4 kids under 2! They had walked in from Glen Dessary. A fox had eaten most of our food cache. The family felt sorry for us and offered us the left overs from their fresh mussel risotto – beautiful. Dinga burnt all their dirty nappies in the fire for them!

Day 14 – Wednesday 14 May 03 Sourlies Bothy – Sgurr na Ciche – Garbh Chioch Mhor – Sgurr nan Coireachain – Glen Dessary – Coire a Bhoganaich – Glen Pean. 2040m. 17km. 9 ½ hours.

We are beginning to really smell. A forecast indicates that we may get a good day on the last day – about time. Showery a.m, but bright and clearer p.m with good views. Wet sloppy snow at the top of Sgurr na Ciche made it tricky. The first time that we had had a panorama of the hills since we started. Hard pull up the final ridge and over to Glen Pean. The bothy was superb and everyone is in high spirits – our last night out.

The best weather of the whole trip on the last day, although it was cold with ice on the summits. Could have done with an ice axe! Everyone is tired, but by now one floats uphill! Sgurr nan Coireachain was our 42 munro. Not much jubilation on the summit – just a need to get off for proper food and a shower. Abo was there to meet us with transport at Glen Finnan. Then to Farr Cottage Bunkhouse for a shower, refreshments and food.

It was decided that it would be a shame not to raise some money for charity. Fergie organized this and identified 2 worthwhile causes – Macmillan Cancer Relief and The Highland Hospice. Initially, £500 seemed a reasonable sum to aim for. However, as I write this we have raised £1500, with more money still to come in. The final amount will be split equally between both charities. Thanks to everyone who gave and helped in collecting sponsorship money. Some people’s generosity was quite staggering.

There are many people and organizations to thank for their; friendly welcome, generosity and time. The names are in no particular order. Kinloss MRT (PS), Gaz Williams, Graham Watt, Roderick (Kinlochewe Hotel), Neil Hinchliff, Nick Barr, Don Shanks, D Flt 202 Sqn, Lea McNally, Steven Miller & Phyllis, Dougie & Angela Lippe, Mike Lee, Gail Russell, Heavy, Neil Baillie and the Leuchars troops, Elma, Dave Booth and last but definitely not least Tom Taylor.

Previous to the expedition, participants realized that the mental and physical effort required to successfully complete Exercise Long Walk would be enormous. Nevertheless, the unseasonable amount of snow and generally poor weather tested personnel far more than one would have expected. One pleasing aspect was that 2 MRT Novices managed to complete the exercise with the other 2 reaching Day 10. All will be better mountaineers for it. As Heavy said, “it’s not all about the Alps and Himalayas, Scotland has much to offer”.

Early May was a bit of a gamble. The weather had been beautiful from late March to the end of April. A heat wave meant that the ground was dry as a bone and rock climbing could start in earnest. It had to break and it did. What we should have done is to start the walk in mid May and not at the beginning. Although it can still be inclement throughout May the chance of snow decreases as the month progresses. Midges might be a problem towards the end of May, but there are not swarms of them.

As time progressed personnel became physically drained. The general view that one gets fitter as each day goes by is misleading. Calorie intake cannot compensate for the physical effort required and by the end, all were very tired (and thinner!). In future it would be prudent to have a day off half way through, to eat and sleep – a recovery day.

Food caches are essential. You could never carry your own food on an enterprise such as this. Make sure that the caches are well buried and covered with large stones or the foxes will get your dinner.

As previously mentioned, a long trek across Scotland gives one a better appreciation than can be gained from weekend forays. You are in wilderness 24 hrs a day – waking up to the cuckoo and going to sleep to barking foxes. Getting back to nature is only part of it. We are all better navigators, fitter, mentally harder, possess greater physical endurance and have a wider area knowledge. I doubt if I will do one again next year, but I’ve got wind of a plan to walk the hills of the Hebrides, starting in Jura and finishing on Harris – that sounds interesting!

N KENWORTHY
Flight Sergeant
KMRT