It had long been an ambition of mine to visit Machu Picchu the lost city of the Incas in Peru. Not wanting to be the total tourist, I decided to do the High Inca Trail. This trek is an addition to the Classic Inca Trail in that it includes four days trekking around the 6264 metres high peak of Salcantay and crosses a high pass at 5050 metres before rejoining the original classic trail.

My only worry was the altitude, normally I’m a good acclimatiser but in the past couple of years the NHS had unzipped my guts on three occasions so I was a bit wary of how I would react to the height. A week’s holiday in North Tenerife allowed me to walk at 3,000 metres with no problem, I would go for it.

As I was on my own I decided to go with one of the big trekking companies, Exodus, and join a group of fifteen like-minded people.

Flying UK – Amsterdam – Lima and Lima to Cusco the Inca capital where we spent the first two days acclimatising by sightseeing and doing a couple of easy walks. Cusco at over 3000 metres is ideal for the purpose of acclimatisation and getting over the jet lag.

The first day included a two-hour coach ride to the start point, which was the village of Mollepata. Here we met up with our wranglers whose horses would carry the kit for the first four days of the trek.

The first leg was a reasonable pull up on good tracks through lush green hillsides. What did create a problem was the heat, it was absolutely baking and one guy had a touch of sunstroke so we were glad to stop for a lunch break and seek the shade. As we lunched, the horses overtook us with our gear. I was still carrying a reasonable day bag (must be an MR thing) much to the ridicule of the rest of the group. By the time we got to the campsite for the evening, all the tents were up and ready and a brew on the go.

Day2 and we are on the move fairly early; again gaining height on good

The daily routine is now setting in, Lunch at mid-day and camp by 4pm. Base camp today is at the snout of a glacial moraine and the wind whistles through it making it very cold as soon as the sun goes down. A big change from the heat of the day, most people hit the sack early to keep warm.

Day3 and most have had a cold night. When they say bring a 4-season bag they mean it. Today is the big day of the trek, height wise we have to cross the 5050 metres pass and to do this we climb up onto the moraine on a good scree path. As we get to the top of the moraine, we see the pass up ahead, It looks straightforward and easy going and I find it no problem at all and what’s more I didn’t explode. Maybe the NHS got it right this time! Downhill steeply into what looks like a Scottish Glen for our lunch stop, and then fairly level going to the campsite, which is situated by a river. Only 2 of us brave the icy water for a full body wash, cold but worth it.

Day5, and we are now at the start of the original trail built by the Inca. It is a solid track with many steps, which are quite high considering the Inca were a small people. The ascent on this first part of the trail is 1200 metres to what is called Dead Woman’s Pass and I think there is a body on every foot of it all the way up.

The penultimate day of the trek. After a descent of about a 1000feet we find ourselves in the cloud forest and on fairly level going as we traverse around hillsides. Lots of magnificent Inca ruins to see but strangely no wild life in this lush forest. In a couple of places the Inca have routed the trail through tunnels in the solid rock and these act as a choke point to stop invaders and as guard posts.

The last trekking day, and after breakfast we say farewell to the porters who took over the carrying task from the horses when we joined the original trail. The Peruvian government rigidly controls the Classic trail; only allowing accredited companies onto the trail. All waste must be brought out from the trail and porters not horses can only be used on this section. Even ski trekking poles have to have protected tips fitted to them. Today’s trek is mainly level as we continue to contour the mountainsides it is again very hot but the welcoming shade in the cloud forest takes the edge of it. Lunch today is in one of the forest lodges and we have the opportunity to get a beer. Level going again and still contouring, we are now behind the mountain that overlooks Machu Picchu and later we start a climb that takes us to the Temple of the Sun. It is from here that we get our first sight of Machu Picchu some 1500 feet below; it looks amazing from here. We descend and do a quick tour of the lost city before continuing to the valley floor and our campsite. There is no rush as we have most of tomorrow to spend exploring the city at leisure.

The campsite is close to the village of Agua Calientes famous for its Inca hot sulphur springs and after dinner the group go for a well-deserved wash.

Up early to visit Machu Picchu before the trains arrive from Cusco with the masses of tourists. We virtually have the place to ourselves and after a guided tour of this fascinating place are free to roam at leisure. We all meet up in Agua Calientes to catch the afternoon train to Ollantaytambo where we will stop in a hotel for the night prior to having a sightseeing coach tour next day.
The train journey is very pleasant and takes about 2 hours. The hotel is in the Spanish hacienda style with beautiful gardens and better still, beds and showers.

Next day we tour a few more Inca ruins and stop for lunch in a village where carnival is in full swing. The lunch is buffet style and because it’s carnival the speciality is on; Guinea pig! I try it but it looks like a dead rat to me and doesn’t taste much better, I stick to the soup. We then head back to Cusco and our hotel.
That evening we have a meal out as a group and more than a few beers. Tomorrow is a free day for sightseeing and shopping before heading home.

In all this was a really enjoyable trip with a good bit of culture thrown in. It was also great to get out into the big hills again and back to South America my favourite continent. Exodus seemed a good company to go with, I could not fault their administration and their use of PAT- Peruvian Andean Treks as the agents in Peru with their excellent guides and organisation was first class. I certainly had no complaints.

The question now is where next?

Danny Daniel