| However, with the addition
of a few extra abseils and help from more talented rock climbing friends,
we succeeded. His route finding ability was exceptional, usually vanishing
around a ledge, to arrive before us above the difficulties.
Teallach made several outstanding walks including two complete
traverses of Scotland, a North to South and an East to West, one
hundred and forty five Munros in seven weeks - very hard on the
paws! His apprenticeship was spent in Wales where he completed the
fourteen Peaks when still just a pup. He did this hill route on
many occasions, learning his basic skills on many of the Welsh classics,
besides doing several winter routes here and in the Lakes. During
my exile in North Wales, the lesser hills proved good training for
Scotland and every six weeks or so we would take a trip to the big
hills in the North, this being where he excelled. I have been a
member of RAF Mountain Rescue Teams at Kinloss and Leuchars and
many days were spent on big hill days with the young team members.
Teallach’s logbook included, the Skye Ridge in two days. Eleven
full traverses of the South Clunnie (including The Saddle), six
complete traverses of the North Clunnie, nine full Traverses of
the Mamores, seven full traverses of the Fannichs, three ascents
of the Shenavall Six and three ascents of the Affric Munros. In
addition, he completed “The Tranter Traverses” in Kintail
and Lochaber and was a regular user of the CIC hut, until he was
banned by the members. |
| He was a very accomplished
climber on rock and ice and in the end, had to be tied up as he
was soloing way beyond my ability to rescue him. Regularly he would
meet us at the bottom of the Cioch Slab in Skye, finding his way
up from the Sgumain Stone Chute and across Eastern Gully with ease.
On one occasion on the Cioch Nose in Applecross, we left him attached
to the rucksacks at the bottom of the route. On returning to our
kit and having attempted to flee the midges, we found him in the
Loch over 2 km away, complete with our rucksacks still tied to his
collar. He was a regular at Glenmore Lodge, before it was in vogue,
until he was banned for annoying too many of the instructors -assessing
in the Northern Corries at the time. After hearing my shouts whilst
climbing, and thinking I was calling to him for help, many a Winter
Leader’s assessment was disturbed by Teallach trying to find
his way up a Grade II gully, - for this I now sincerely apologise
to the principal. The Lodge even sent a “formal letter”
addressed to the MRT at RAF Kinloss, complaining of his abysmal
rope work!
Though not a rescue dog, he was superb on the hill and could sniff
out a cornice in any weather. His area knowledge was exceptional
and he never used a map or compass, always finding the summit and
leaving his mark on it! He had 2 big falls. The first one was on
Creag Meaghaidh where he went a thousand feet in a whiteout. He
was out in front as usual and at the overconfident stage in his
mountaineering career. After I descended into the Coire expecting
to find him in a bad way, I found him okay, a bit shaken and by
now very “Cornice aware”. On the second occasion, I
left him below Black Spout on Lochnagar. After having an epic on
Black Spout Buttress, I was faced with getting off the hill in poor
weather, late on a wild winters night. The only way off was over
the Cornice down Black Spout Gully. Two following climbers brought
the Cornice down on top of us; we fell six hundred feet. Teallach
arrived on scene and began digging us out, even though the avalanche
had hit him as well. We eventually got back in the wee small hours,
battered and bruised.
In those days, snow-holeing was fashionable. One night on the Cairngorm
Plateau after the usual few drams, we all drifted back to our own
holes. Just as we were falling asleep, I heard a noise outside and
thinking that it was a raid on our whisky store, sent Teallach out
to chase them off. Even though Teallach was a big softy, in the
dark and around the snow hole, he must have looked fearsome. Imagine
my consternation the following morning, when I went out and found
two climbers curled up and shivering. They had left their sacks
below Hells Lum and could not find them. Having seen our light they
thought they were safe, only to be met by a huge dog, who would
not let them in the snow hole. I brought them in, gave them a brew
and walked them off in the morning, meeting Cairngorm MRT, who were
coming to look for our “lost” friends. (Another confession)
I rarely saw him tired, only once whilst completing the Big Three
in Torridon, (Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Ben Alligin) the heat got
to him and he refused to add Beinn Dearg to the day, heading off
down the Glen on his own to the vehicle. As he got older like us
all, age began to take its toll. Problems with his hips and back
became chronic, but he still loved every minute on the hill. On
rescues he was a great asset and was always well behaved. He knew
when we had a fatality to deal with, or when the situation was serious
and kept out of the way. He found a few casualties in his time and
was a warm bivouac partner on many rescues.
After a hill-day and back in the bothy, he would always find the
new lad’s sleeping bag and make himself comfortable, in their
bag and fast asleep. Few were brave enough to move the huge Alsatian
and many a novice had a cold night curled up on the floor (good
training for the Greater Ranges). As he got older he would enjoy
walking up to the crag and watching our epics on the classics routes,
occasionally pinching any food that was left in open rucksacks.
Even after a long climbing day he would still be there after 12
hours, waiting for you to come down. He would even know where the
descent gully was and meet you. Later on he developed a love for
Sea Stacks and would enjoy the day whilst we climbed on Am Buaichile
or Storr, swimming around the stack, watching what was going on.
Every hill loch would involve a swim whatever the weather or season.
Each Friday night he would patiently wait by the Land Rover ready
to go out on the hill, even when his health was failing. He would
get upset at not being able to go out at weekends and still sit
in the wagon waiting. In the Bothies and after a long hill day,
he would crawl next to the fire and once burst into flames in The
Ossian Youth Hostel after lying too near the stove.
Teallach was an exceptional dog, well behaved on the hill, no
problem with sheep or any of the wild life and most of all a great
companion. The ultimate Party Leader, always looking after his party,
regularly rounding up any stragglers. He was not a just a Munro
bagger but an all round “Scottish Mountaineer”. He used
to be able to jump and climb deer fences when in his prime. Unfortunately
he nearly hung himself when his karabiner caught in the top wire,
much to the consternation of my 5 year old stepson who was very
worried. I managed to sort it out and Teallach became very aware
that his screw gate karabiner should be locked closed at all times!
He always wore a screw gate karabiner round his collar and had one
terrible habit when he was thirsty, in the middle of the night.
He would head for the toilet for a drink. The noise of the karabiner
on the toilet bowl woke everyone. Even though he died back in 1992,
I sorely miss him, what a friend he was, what a life he had.
This article was published in the Scottish Mountaineering
Club Journal August 2005
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